Drawing puff sleeves is an art form that, when done right, can turn any outfit into a show-stopper. Whether you’re taking a sewing class or creating a couture look for a special event, crafting perfect puff sleeves is easier than you might think.
Get the Right Supplies
The supplies you’ll need to create puff sleeve outfits vary based on what type of fabric you’d like to use and how you plan on constructing it. However, generally, you’ll need a few basics. These include: fabric, seam binding, scissors, pins, and interfacing.
When shopping for the best fabric, look for something lightweight and with a natural drape, like silk, charmeuse, and chiffon. Though synthetics are rougher and less pliable, they’re cheaper, more stain-resistant, and quicker to sew.
Mark and Sew the Shoulder Seam
Start by folding the fabric right-sides together and pinning the shoulder seam together. Then, sew the shoulder seam together, using a straight stitch of a quarter-inch. To ensure accuracy, measure the shoulder width twice. Once finished sewing, mark the adjustment dots along the seam.
Bring each adjustment dot to the closest point on the shoulder seam, and mark them gently with a pencil. All dots should be connected to form a trapezoidal shape. This creates a pattern for the puff effect.
Cutting and Picking
Next, cut along the adjustment dots you’ve drawn. Once cut, gently peel open the fabric and press the slightly puffy sections lightly. Use a pressing cloth between the fabric and the iron to prevent scorching the fabric.
Now, cut a piece of seam binding equal to the length of the shoulder seam plus one inch. Pin the seam binding on the fabric, making sure that the raw edges are tucked in. If you’re using a lightweight fabric, you may wish to use a medium-weight interfacing to strengthen the seam.
Gathering and Sewing
Once you’ve pinned and interfaced the seam binding, gather the fabric closely along the edges. The gathers should be small and tight for a professional look. Carefully sew along the seam binding, slightly stretching the binding as you go.
Finally, secure the gathers at the center of the shoulder seam with a small few stitches. Trim away the excess seam binding, and press the seam flat for a crisp finish.
Constructing the Sleeve
Fold the fabirc in half with the pattern (pattern!) piece overlapping the shoulder seam. Align the grainline with the center of the shoulder and make sure that the shoulder seams match. To complete the sleeve, cut a piece of seam binding that is equal to the length of the shoulder seam plus one inch, and pin it to the sleeve.
Now, press the seam allowance to the seam binding and sew it down. Sew the side seams together, and make sure to use a straight stitch that is a quarter-inch. To complete the sleeve, press it flat and trim the excess seam binding away.
Adding the Cuffs
If you want a more dramatic puff sleeve look, consider adding a cuff. To do this, cut a strip of fabric that is the same width as the sleeve and the circumference of the wrist plus two inches for seam allowances. Sew the strip around the sleeve, keeping the seams aligned.
Pin and stitch the edges of the cuff onto the sleeve, and press the edge flat. Now, turn the cuff right-sides out, and your stylish puff sleeve is ready to wear!
Creating the Neckline
To finish up your puff sleeve, you’ll need to add a neckline. Here, buy or create a pattern for the neckline or bodice and cut it out of the fabric. Next, stitch the front and back of the neckline together, making sure to leave a seam allowance. Along the edge, use seam binding to finish the stitching, and press the seam flat for a neat finish.
To add the neckline to your puff sleeve, pin the neckline to the shoulder seam. Make sure the neckline is facing the inside of the sleeve, and then sew or serge the seam. Finally, top-stitch the neckline along the shoulder seam, and your puff sleeve is complete.
Conclusion
Drawing puff sleeves is an art that requires patience, an eye for detail, and an understanding of the fabric you’re working with. With the right tools, supplies, and techniques, though, you’ll create stunning couture looks in no time. So grab your fabric, materials, and scissors, and get to work on the puff sleeve of your dreams.
